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This plastic is particularly adaptable for making molds and
light castings requiring low tensile strength but very clear
outline. It may also be used for making novelties and ornaments.
However, as this is inflammable, do not use for ashtrays.
The name would convey the thought of plastic sulphur which is an
unstable allotropic form of sulphur. This is not the case. The
sulphur acts as a bond to hold the filler together and form a
stable material.
Marble effects may be obtained by varying the filler used, and
by substituting a small quantity of chalk to replace some of the
graphite. A very pleasing glazed marble effect is formed.
As long as graphite is retained as a filler, this plastic may be
electroplated and forms a very economical base for such work.
FORMULA: Mix thoroughly and smooth together 25 parts graphite
and 75 parts sulphur and place over low heat. As soon as the
mass has melted and runs like water, remove from heat. In any
case, a temperature of 235 degrees F. should not be exceeded. If
heated about 250 degrees F. the plastic will form a rubbery mass
and will have to be cooled and reheated. In this liquid state
the plastic is ready for casting, and may be poured into smooth
surfaced molds.
N.B. To heat this mixture properly, a good even heat is
necessary. Should the heating be done by flame, the container
should be placed in a sand bath to ensure an even heat. The cast
iron top of a stove or heater is excellent.
EQUIPMENT: The only equipment for the above that is required, is
space enough to work, a heater or stove, a kettle or pan to heat
the mixture in, and a table or bench.
PROCEDURE: Before making in castings you will need a pattern.
After choosing a design that fits your need, your next step is
to make a mold. Then you start into production. If your product
requires any holes, threads or machining, this may be done in
the same manner as in working with a metal casting.
Always think of your castings as metal, for they have metallic
properties, i.e., conduct heat, electricity and can be
electroplated. In fact, the most valuable quality of
Sulpho-Plastic is the fact that it can be used as a metal
substitute. This permits you to make products that look and are
as good and even better, in some cases, than a true metal. For
instance, to make a chrome plated metal lamp base, other metal
casting would require foundry equipment and machine shop work. A
process miles out of reach of the small manufacturer. However,
your plastic lamp base, similar in all respects, may be made for
a fraction of the other cost.
ELECTROPLATING: While this can be done at home with very little
equipment, it is advisable to have it done by a commercial firm.
They do it very cheaply and much more efficiently.
Electroplating is only used on expensive replicas and is not
advisable for a start.
DESIGN: The number and variety of articles that can be made from
Sulpho-Plastic is practically unlimited and to make a complete
list would be impossible, though any article of reasonable size
and simplicity of design such as lamps, vases, plaques,
brooches, desk-sets, toys, paper weights, etc. may be cast by
using an original article for a pattern or model. Or an original
design may be patterned in clay and used to make a mold. It ss
advisable for the beginner to choose a simple article to start
with, preferably solid, such as book-ends or paper weights.
MOLDS: Molds may be made of metal or plaster of paris. Metal
molds require a great deal of skill and equipment to produce.
Therefore for the beginner, it is advisable to use plaster of
paris.
To Make a Plaster of Paris Mold: First obtain a boxwood or
cardboard, about an inch larger than the article to be cast.
Coat the Inside of the box very thoroughly, but thinly with
stearine or sweet oil. Use this also on the article to be cast.
This acts as a lubricant and the plaster of paris will not
cement itself to either the box or the article, if the oil is
evenly distributed. Next make a thick, creamy mixture of plaster
of paris by sifting the plaster gradually into the water,
stirring constantly to prevent lumping. Let this stand for a few
minutes to allow the air bubbles to escape. Pour mixture slowly
over pattern in the box to about double the thickness of the
pattern. Allow several hours to dry, then remove. When the mold
is thoroughly dry, give it a thin coat of shellac and repeat in
12 hours. Now the mold is ready to use.
MOLDING: First always make sure that you have lubricated your
mold with stearlne or beeswax. Place molds on a reasonably level
surface and pour the Sulpho-Plastic into the mold, quickly and
smoothly. Do not pour from a height as this will break the
lubricant and leave blemishes on the castings. Plastic must be
poured quickly to prevent cooling in folds and thus making a
poor casting. One of the big assets of Sulpho-Plastic is the
fact that it dries and hardens almost immediately. There is no
long wait for the casting to dry.
SOURCES OF SUPPLIES: Graphite and Sulphur can be obtained from
most any hardware or paint store. Also plaster of paris.
Stearine, beeswax, sweet oll can be purchased from most drug or
grocery stores.
FORMULA:
Foam density lbs./cu. ft. 1-1/2 8 24 48
Polylite 8601 50. 50. 50. 50.
Catalyst R1 1.3 0.65 0.65 0.65
Water 3.7 0.4 0.1 0.0
Polylite 8621 100. 50. 48.5 47
(polylite 8601 is a polyester)
(polylite 8621 is a polyiscyanate)
PROCEDURE;: In order to prepare a foam of given density,
thoroughly mix Polylite 8601 with the necessary amount of
catalyst Rl and water. This mixture is stable when foam is
required. Add the necessary amount of Polylite 8621. Mix
thoroughly for 25 to 30 seconds and then pour. Do this right
after mixing foam as per instructions above. The foam will fully
expand within 3 to 5 minutes and sets within 5 to 7 minutes into
a rigid unicullar structure.
Available mixing time can be extended by moderately chilling the
catalized resin and the Polyisicyanate. It will attain nearly
maximum physical properties upon standing a few hours at room
temperature and ultimate strength in about one week. Surface
brittleness may be evident with some formulations after initial
set. This brittleness disappears upon further curling, leaving a
tough non-friable foam. Curling can be accelerated with moderate
heat up to 100 degrees F. after the foam has set, if desired.
SOURCES OF SUPPLIES: Polylite 8601, Polylite 8621 and Catalyst
R1 can all be obtained from: Reichold Chemicals Inc. 525 N.
Broadway, White Plains, NY 10602
CRAFT PLAX CLEAR FLEXIBLE PLASTIC
Vinyl Chloride Type
Suitable for molding in a letterpress
FORMULA:
Pliovic AO 25 ounces
Dioctyl Phthalate 12 ounces
Panaflex BN 2 4 ounces
Aluminum Stearate 1 ounce
PROCEDURE: The aluminum stearate is mixed with hot Diloctyl
Phthalate. After cooling to room temperature, add the panaflex
BN 2, and finally, the Pliovic AO. Small scale mixing can be
done with a paddle, but commercial size batches will require the
use of a planetary dough type mixer such as used by bakers.
PACKING: One pint paint cans and a paper label.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE: Mold with your hands or press into molds
with a letterpress. Heat to 350 degrees F. and hold this
temperature until the plastic has cured. This will require from
a few minutes to an hour or more, depending on the thickness of
the object. Curling time can be determined by trial. Molds can
be made of 50-50 solder.
COMMENT: Plastic of this kind is known as plastigel, since it
is in the form of easily manipulated, putty-like gel in its
uncured state. No other form of plastic is better suited to the
operation of the homeworker because no expensive dies or high
pressure pressure equipment is needed to produce first class
flexible objects.
SOURCE OF SUPPLIES:
Pliovic 40: Goodyear Tire & Rubber Co. Akron, OH.
Dioctyl Phthalate: Monsanto Chemical Corp. 1700 s. 2nd St., St.
Louis, MO.
Panananex BN 2: Amoco Chemical Corp., 555 Fifty Ave., New York,
NY.
Aluminum Stearate: Witco Chemical Co., 277 Park Ave., New York,
NY.
Paint Cans: Fruend Can Co. 4439 S. Cottage Grove Ave., Chicago,
IL.
Labels:. Frazer Label Co. 734 S. Federal St., Chicago, IL.
Mixers: A. Daigger & Co. 189 W. Kinzie St. Chicago, IL.
IMITATION PAPER MACHE
FORMULA 1:
Wet paper pulp 10 ounces
Casein 5 ounces
Lime 2 ounces
Whiting 20 ounces
Use as little water as possible in making this formula. Make up
small batches until you see if the composition is exactly what
you desire. Hot compositions, of course cannot be used in glue
molds.
FORMULA 2:
Paper pulp 10 ounces
Whiting 8 ounces
Rice flour 5 ounces
Cook to a heavy paste, or 5 ounces of rice may be cooked to a
paste and mixed with the dry materials. A hard paper mache.
FORMULA 3:
Use paper pulp or whiting 5 pounds
Liquid Glue 1 pound
Clear Varnish 4 ounces
Linseed Oil 4 ounces
MIXING: Pour the glue into a tin or pail with a tight fitting
lid so that it can be kept tightly closed when not in use. Then
add the whiting or paper pulp, stirring In a little at a time to
a smooth paste. Then add the varnish and linseed oil, mixed
well. Keep the mixture covered well when not in use as it dries
rapidly. This mixture will adhere firmly to wood, glass, tin,
chinaware, etc. Paper mache surfaces are greatly improved after
drying if they are coated with shellac. 2 coats.
SYNTHETIC RESIN PLASTIC
FORMULA: Phenol and a solution of Formaldehyde, in equal
proportions, are put in a steam jacketed kettle and heat is
gradually applied. Soon the material will begin to react, and in
doing so - liberate heat so intense the reaction may become that
the steam must, at times be shut off and cold water circulated
in the packet to keep the process from going too far, or the
material is from boiling out of the kettle. After a few hours of
heating, the contents of the kettle will be found to have
separated into layers - the heavy melted resin in the bottom and
the water on top. When the water is removed, the melted resin is
allowed to run from the kettle into small pans to cool. This is
a process that requires some experimenting with to get just
right. But it is an interesting experience, and lays the
foundation for later work on a commercial basis. Different
treatment will produce many different qualities of the product.
So it is good to keep a record of every operation. Put them all
down in a record book when a satisfactory product is obtained,
so it can later be duplicated.
SOURCE OF SUPPLIES: Phenol and Formaldehyde can be purchased
from most any wholesale drug supply co.
FIBERGLASS REINFORCED PLASTIC
FORMULA:
Laminac 4134 24.45%
Laminac 4110 75.00%
Cobalt Nepthenate (liquid) 0.24%
Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide 0.3%
ALSO NEEDED:
Talc
Fiberglass mat
Color paste for Laminac resin
Cellophane
No. 1894 EX-L-WAX
Woven Fiberglass cloth
PROCESS: This method of forming reinforced plastic objects ss
known as "open mold fabrication". It is best suited to the home
craftsman because it is the simplest method available and
requires the lowest investment. Extreme wide variation in the
techniques are possible and the type of structures that can be
made are almost limitless. For molding a boat hull, a female
mold is used. This mold is made to conform exactly to the
exterior dimensions and finish desired in the completed molded
boat hull. The mold may be made of wood plaster, metal, or
plastic. The best practical and inexpensive molds are made of
the same plastic from which the boat itself will be made. The
interior of the mold is first coated with the parting agent -
No. 1894 EX-L-WAX. Apply the least amount that will provlde easy
removal of the hull from the mold. Mix the laminac 4134 and 4110
in the proportions stated in the above formula. Add the cobalt
naphthenate accelerator and mix thoroughly before adding the
methyl ethyl ketone peroxide catalyst. The catalyst will react
violently with the pure accelerator so make certain these
materials are mixed separately. Add talc to the mixture to
thicken it so that application to a vertical surface will not
produce sags. Apply a coat of the thickened resin to the inside
surface of the mold. This is to ensure a smooth and durable
surface. Lay up a single layer or fiberglass mat over the entire
surface of the mold. Using a paint roller or brush, impregnate
the layer of fiberglass with resin. Regardless of how the resin
is applied, the paint roller must also be used to assure against
entrapped air bubbles.
Layer up another layer of mat and impregnate with resin same as
the first. Repeat this process until desired thickness is
attained. Finish with a layer or fiberglass cloth and work
vigorously with the roller to remove excess resin. Finally apply
cellophane over the entire surface to produce a smooth finish.
Allow to harden at room temperature. Remove from the mold and
place in an even heated room to 170 degrees F. and not over 200
degrees F. Bake until full hardness.
Any other structure, large or small is molded in the same way.
Whether you use a male or female mold depends on which surface
of the finished piece should have the finished side. The surface
in contact with the mold is always the most highly finished.
Colors may be added to suit by using color paste made for the
purpose. These are incorporated into the resin at the time the
talc is added.
More complete instructions on this process may be round in
"Fabricating with Laminac Resins". Write to: American Cyanamid
Co., 30 Rockefeller Plaza, NewYork, NY 10020.
SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:
Laminac 4134 and Laminac 4110 from: American Cyanamid Co.
Plastics Division, #0 Rockefeller Plaza, NewYork, NY 10020
Cobalt Nepthenate (liquid) from: Carlisle Chemical Works, Inc.,
Reading, OH
Methyl Ethal Ketone from: Enjay Co., 15 W. 51st, NewYork, NY
10020
Talc from: Johns-Manvllle Co., Celite Division, 22 E. 40th St.,
New York, NY 10016
No. 1894 EX-L-WAX from: Mitchell Rand Mfg. Co. 51 Murray St.,
New York, NY 10007
Fiberglass Mat From Bigelow Fiberglass Products, 140 Madison
Ave., New York, NY 10016
Woven Fiberglass Cloth from: Hess Goldsmith & Co. 1450 Broadway,
New York, NY
Color Pastes from: Plastic Molders Supply Co. 74 South Ave.,
Fanwood, NJ
Cellophane from: Olin Products Co., 270 Park Ave., New York, NY
FISHING LURES, FROGS & WORMS
FORMULA:
Geen 121 30 ounces
Geen 202 20 ounces
Good-Rite GP-261 25 ounces
Tin Stabilizer 1 ounce
Hydrogenated Terphenyl 25 ounces
PROCEDURE: A small quantity like this may be mixed with an
electric hand mixer or by hand. This mixture is fluid and may be
poured into suitable molds, heating the molds to 350 degrees F.
in an oven. It will fuse and harden the plastic. There will be
little shrinkage and the cast objects have a life-like feeling.
Molds may be made of any material that will stand the curing
temperature.
SOURCES OF SUPPLIES:
Geen 121 & 202 from: B.F. Goodrich Chemical Co. 3135 Euclid
Ave., Cleveland, OH
Good-Rite GP-261 from: B.F. Goodrich Chemical Co. 3135 Euclid
Ave., Cleveland, OH
Hydrogenated Terphenyl from: Harshaw Chemical Co., 1945 E. 97th
St., Cleveland, OH
Tin Stabilizer from: Metal Thermit Corp., Rahway, NJ
CELLO SPONGE RUBBER
FORMULA
Geen 121 100 ounces
Paraplex G-25 50 ounces
Paraplex G-50 50 ounces
Dythos (stabilizer) .3 ounces
BL-353 (blowing agent) 10 ounces
Sponge Density 7 lbs. per cu. ft. Expansion 1100%
PROCEDURE: Heat the pastisol in the mold or on the desired
substrate at 212 degrees F. until expansion is completed. When
the GL-353 is used, the pigmented plastisol will show a
yellow-green (the color of BL-353) to white when all the blowing
agent is decomposed.
SOURCES OF SUPPLIES: Geen 121 from: B.F. Goodrich, 3135 Euclid
Ave., Cleveland, OH
Paraplex G-25 & G-50 from: Relm & Haas Co., Washington Square,
Philadelphia PA
Dythos from: National Lead Co. 111 Broadway, New York NY
BL-353 From E.I. Dupont Co., Wilmington DL.
SIMPLIFIED PLASTICS
The amount of ingredients used in these various formulas is
considered to be correct. But you may have to do some
experimenting on your own to obtain the proper flow properties.
FORMULA 1:
Wood Flour 5 parts
Sodium Silicate 15 parts
PROCEDURE: Mix the wood flour and Sodium Silicate together. Add
more water if necessary until a dough like mixture is formed by
kneading with the hands. This material may be molded into hard
objects by pressure. Colors may be added while kneading. Use
aniline dyes or dry colors. This material is suited for plaques,
statutes, book ends, etc.
FORMULA 2: Dissolve 20 parts of flake glue in water In a double
boiler. Add the dissolved glue to 90 parts of gelatine. Add 50
parts of wood flour and 300 parts of powdered chalk. Mix A and B
together to make a heavy batter. This is done in enough warm
water to loosen the material. Add dry colors (can be obtained
from any paint dealer) and mold under pressure.
FORMULA 3: Add 100 parts of Zinc Oxide to 4 parts of Silicic
Acid. Add 2 parts of Powdered Borax to 2-1/2 parts of Powdered
Glass. Then mix both together well. Grind until fine, then bring
it into a solution by adding a concentrated Zinc Oxide solution.
This material is ideal for small objects but must be worked fast
because of its rapid drying. Color if desired in the usual
manner. It may be pressed with a hand press or in a drill press.
FORMULA 4: Dissolve 1 pound of flaked glue in water by boiling.
Shred enough tissue paper into the solution to give body and the
stir until a thick batter results. Add 1 cup of l Linseed Oil
into the solution and 1 cup of powdered chalk. Stir well then
remove from the double boiler, when cool enough to knead with
hands. Press into molds. A pair of old gloves slightly oiled
with pure oil should be used to protect the hands while kneading
these materials. It takes a few days for this material to dry.
But at the end of the drying time it should be as hard as stone.
And it resembles carved wood.
FORMULA 5: Add 11 parts of Epsom Salts to 30 parts of freshly
Calcined Magnesite and 2-1/2 parts of Lead Acetate. Mix
thoroughly. Then add enough water to hold the material together.
Mold under pressure. This formula is good for outdoor
decorations, such as ducks, birds, etc. They may be painted
after they have dried.
FORMULA 6: Add 12 parts Pitch to 6 parts Rosin, mix together
then add 1/2 part Caster Oil and 1/4 part melted wax. Blend this
mixture together at a temperature of 250 to 260 degrees F. Press
while hot into a cold die. Many articles may be made from this
material.
RESIN CASTING PLASTIC
This is called Phenolic-Formaldehyde-Resin: All the materials
for this formula can be purchased from any wholesale drug house.
EXTREME CAUTION should be taken when mixing this formula. You
should only use a glass or stainless steel vessel. And perform
the operation in a place where the fumes will dissipate. Either
in open air or into a chimney. These products should never come
into contact with the skin. They are highly irritating and
corrosive.
MATERIALS NEEDED: Pure Phenol (carbolic acid) crystals, Formalin
(30% Formaldehyde), Caustic Soda (sodium hydroxide) or lye,
Lactic Acid. Glycerine, and Hydrochloric Acid.
Quantities are given by weight, so that you may make any desired
amount of resin.
FORMULA: In a vessel mix 1 part phenol with 2-1/2 parts of
formalin. Add caustic soda a 20% solution in water, in the
amount of three parts to 100 parts of the phenol and
formaldehyde solution. The mixture Is then heated for about 6
hours at 150 to 160 degrees F. Remove the water formed by the
reaction. When the resin has become a thick syrup, add 6 parts
of lactic acid and 15 parts of glycerine. Continue to heat until
a small sample congeals on cooling. Add Hydrochloric Acid. 1
part to 100 parts of the mixture by weight, and when
sufficiently cool, pour into dies of lead or plaster.
Hardening time depends on so many factors. It is hard to
predict. It will dry quicker if heated In an oven at 120 to 140
degrees F. The product wlll be water-white, and may be colored
wlth dyes or pigments if desired.
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